Day 20 (29 March): Oslo

In 33 days, we’ll be kicking off two full days in Oslo. On the 29th of March, the average top temp in Oslo is 2ºC… and that’s 2ºC warmer than we expect on day 9 of our trip, when we arrive in Oslo the first time. It was an unavoidable duplication in our planning - one city had to be visited twice, and Oslo it is.

Oslo, the capital of Norway, was founded around 1049 by King Harald Hardrada. It became a significant trading and administrative centre but was devastated by plague in the 14th century. The Black Death, which struck Oslo in 1349, was part of the devastating bubonic plague pandemic that swept through Europe. The disease arrived in Norway via a trading ship, likely from England or the Hanseatic cities, docking in Bergen before spreading across the country, including Oslo.

The impact was catastrophic—estimates suggest that up to 60% of Norway’s population perished, and Oslo too suffered immense losses. Many farms and villages were abandoned, and economic activity collapsed. The labour shortage led to social upheaval, weakening the power of the Norwegian monarchy and paving the way for increased influence from Denmark and Sweden.

For centuries after the Black Death, Norway remained sparsely populated and politically vulnerable, eventually entering the Kalmar Union with Denmark and Sweden in 1397. The plague’s long-term effects reshaped Norwegian society, delaying urban development and contributing to a period of economic stagnation.

Back in Oslo in 1624, after a great fire, King Christian IV rebuilt the city closer to Akershus Fortress and renamed it Christiania. The name was later changed back to Oslo in 1925. Oslo grew rapidly in the 19th and 20th centuries, becoming Norway’s economic and cultural hub. Today, it is known for its maritime history, green spaces, and modern architecture, including the Oslo Opera House and the Munch Museum.

Illuminated skyline of Oslo with uniquely shaped buildings reflecting on the tranquil waterfront.