Portugal: more food, more wine, more excellent company!

Our Portugal adventure continued with what might be the best pain au chocolat ever. It was so good that Jase and Tim went back for seconds. This was from the local bakery in Santo Isidoro - but the pastry chef is world famous, and he's come here to retire. What a find!

Pain au chocolat directly from heaven.

With our caffeine and pastry fix sorted, we set off toward Hajacortesia Wines. Firstly, we stopped at the Ericeira Miradouro. Such a gorgeous view!

Being a bit ahead of schedule, we made a spontaneous stop at Samarra Beach. This tiny, sheltered beach was absolutely gorgeous and a perfect way to pass the time before our wine tour.

Hajacortesia Wines: A Personal Tour

Upon arrival at Hajacortesia Wines, we met the owner, who personally took us on a tour of the vineyards. Hopping into her car, we explored vines growing in both clay and sandy soil, learning how different environmental factors—wind, weather, soil—impact the flavor of the grapes and, ultimately, the wines. Back at the cellar door, we enjoyed a tasting session accompanied by a delicious meat and cheese board.

A Legendary Chorizo Truck

Next up, a roadside treat—pão com chouriço! Apparently the best in the area, this chorizo bread truck looked pretty permanent despite being labeled a food truck. The boys enjoyed their snacks with a breathtaking view, including the grand palace of Mafra.

Adegamãe Wines: A Deep Dive into Winemaking

If Hajacortesia was intimate, Adegamãe was an epic deep dive into the world of wine. Ricardo, our guide, walked us through the history of the company, the winemakers, and the land. We explored the entire winemaking process step by step—from sorting and pressing to fermentation and oak barrel storage. By the time we reached the tasting, we had a newfound appreciation for the wines. They were absolutely delicious, possibly enhanced by our deeper understanding of the craft.

We left with three bottles of wine. Whether they make it home in one piece remains to be seen!

An Evening of Charcuterie & Games

Back at Tim and Carmen’s place, the evening was filled with good food and laughter. Carmen prepared a charcuterie board while Tim unveiled a whole Jamon he had been saving for the occasion. We ate, drank, and played Skull.

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Surf & Mussels

The next morning started early with a surf session at Praia de São Julião. Tim and his Canadian friend Kev hit the waves while Carmen, Jase, and I sheltered in a café, watching the rain pour down. Once it eased, Carmen and I set off on a mission—mussel catching!

The rocky outcrops were covered in millions of tiny mussels, and we searched for ones bigger than three finger-widths to take home for lunch. The water was a brisk 14°C, but we were determined and ended up with a solid haul—about 50!

Back home, we faced the challenge of packing our wine while staying under the airline weight limit. Just barely made it! Then, while Tim and Carmen attended their Portuguese lesson, I took over the kitchen and prepared a feast—garlic white wine mussels. Since I had foraged, cleaned, and cooked them myself, it felt like a perfect full-circle moment.

The Final Explorations

In the afternoon, Carmen took us to see the palace of Mafra while Tim worked. We opted not to go inside, but even from the outside, it was clear this extravagant palace had seen better days.

Of course, it had been nearly 24 hours without pastries, so we had to fix that. We tried the local specialty, which was sweet, but not our favourite of the trip.

Our last big stop was Ericeira, a stunning surf town and one of only two world surfing reserves in Europe. The waves were absolutely massive, thanks to the full moon and high tide. Some were so powerful that we could feel the ground shake beneath us. We stood in awe, watching and snapping dozens of photos. This place is a dream—I could move here in a heartbeat.

One final pastry stop introduced us to Ouriço, a local treat translating to “sea urchin.” It was rich, sweet, eggy, with a perfectly burnt caramelised top. A fitting final bite of Portugal’s pastry magic.

Farewell, for Now (we WILL be back!)

Back at Tim and Carmen’s, we shared a final cup of tea, exchanged hugs, and gifted them a bottle of aged Vinhos Velhos from Adegamãe as a token of our gratitude. Despite the miles between us, they remain in our “best friends forever” category, and this trip was just another chapter in our years of incredible memories together.

Our Uber whisked us away to the Melia Hotel Aeroporto for an easy early morning check-in. A quiet dinner and a glass of wine at the hotel bar wrapped up this leg of our adventure, and now we’re off to Oslo via Madrid. Onward to the next adventure!