Risøyrenna, Raftsundet, Trollfjord & Lofoten Islands

We woke up early on day three of our Voyage South and grabbed a quick breakfast before heading to the gym. Running on a treadmill with an ocean view remains an experience like no other! The calmer water made it much easier to keep a steady pace, and after a solid 7km run, I cooled down on the deck, taking in the breathtaking Arctic scenery.

Navigating Risøyrenna: A Historic Shipping Route

One of the highlights of the morning was passing through Risøyrenna, a narrow 4.8km-long channel between two islands. Built in the 1920s, this passage is only 7m deep, leaving just a 2m clearance for our ship! It’s an important shipping route and provided a fascinating glimpse into Norway’s maritime history. The landscape has changed as we travel south, despite still being within the Arctic Circle.

This photo shows the narrow passage through which the boat navigates. There are about 10m on either side of the boat before the markers.

Exploring Stokmarknes and the Hurtigruten Museum

We had a short stop in Stokmarknes, where we wandered through town and stumbled upon an adventure store—naturally, I couldn’t resist picking up some extra running clothes and headbands! The real highlight here, though, was visiting the Hurtigruten Museum, which is built around the original Finnmarken coastal express ship. This historic vessel was dry-docked as a monument, but exposure to the elements prompted the construction of a protective structure around it. Walking through the ship was fascinating—we explored everything from the captain’s cabin to the bunk rooms, making us incredibly grateful for our modern accommodations. 

Stokmarknes also has some pretty epic views!

Raftsundet and Trollfjord: A Taste of History and Nature

Sailing through Raftsundet was a dramatic experience, flanked by towering 1,000-meter-high mountains. The strait is 25km long and runs between two islands. 

During a presentation onboard, we learned about the geography and history of the region while sampling some dried stockfish—definitely an acquired taste! We also tried Trollbrygg, a traditional warm apple and cinnamon drink. It was a bit too sweet for us, but the best part was that we got to keep the souvenir cups!

A brief detour took us to the entrance of Trollfjord, a spectacularly steep-sided fjord. Unfortunately, we couldn’t enter due to avalanche risks, but even from the mouth, the views were stunning. Watching the sunset paint the Norwegian coastal mountains was a sight to remember.

Sunset over Trollfjord

Disappointment and Change of Plans

We had been eagerly anticipating a polar night hike in Lofoten, but earlier in the day, we learned it was cancelled due to low participant numbers. Then, in the late afternoon, more bad news—my horseback riding excursion was also cancelled. The weather at the embarkation point was too unpredictable, and there was a chance the ship wouldn’t be able to dock safely. I was so disappointed, as I had been looking forward to it for months! Hopefully, we can find a similar experience when we reach Finland.

Evening Stop in Svolvær, Lofoten

While having dinner, the ship docked in Svolvær, Lofoten. This small town is packed with history and it’s just such a gorgeous place—once again on the “Return To” list (not letting go of the horse riding plan!). On the right side of the harbour, we saw fish in their drying racks, a tradition that dates back to the Stone Age. Archaeological evidence suggests this practice has been around for at least 6,000 years! The racks are filled in February, and the fish dry until May or June.

Stockfish drying on racks in Svolvær, Lofoten

The floating ice might slightly giveaway the water temperature!

Since the ship was staying for a couple of hours and our excursions cancelled, we took the opportunity to explore. Our first stop was the WWII museum—an incredible collection run by an eccentric elderly gentleman. The memorabilia, including Nazi uniforms, weapons, and photos, was extensive and probably worth millions. It was one of the most comprehensive WWII collections we’ve ever seen. None of us realised the extent to which Norway was involved in WWII, nor the extent of the damage inflicted upon this part of the world.

Afterward, we popped into a small souvenir shop before heading back to the ship, thinking we’d have an early night. But just as we were settling in, an announcement came over the speakers—northern lights sighting! We rushed up to deck 8, and while faint to the naked eye, the camera revealed a spectacular show. What an unforgettable way to end the day!