Rovaniemi: Ski Trekking, Soviet Vibes & Surprisingly Great Burgers

Our third day in Rovaniemi began as all good days should—with coffee. Sadly, our beloved Robert’s Coffee House was closed, so we wandered into Espresso House instead. Not quite the same charm, but it did the job.

One thing that keeps catching us off guard is the daylight. Even though it feels like we only just passed the equinox, there are only about five true hours of night here, which messes slightly with your sense of time (and makes it hard to tell if it’s 5pm or 10pm).

Another curiosity: the town itself. There’s something about Rovaniemi that feels… vaguely Soviet. Maybe it’s the Uralic language we hear and see, or the fact that we’re in a smaller town (just under 70,000 people). It’s not the architecture—Rovaniemi was 95% destroyed during WWII—so the buildings are mostly post-war. It’s more of a vibe, hard to define but definitely different from any other European place I’ve been.

Ski Trekking Adventure

At 9am, we met our guide in town for a morning of ski trekking. After a 30-minute drive (close to where we’d gone ice fishing), we strapped on our backcountry skis. These were shorter than regular skis and had “skins” underneath for grip, plus soft bindings so your heel can lift, more like hiking boots. They were perfect for exploring the snow-covered terrain. And my first time on two skis! Definitely different from having a board strapped beneath my feet.

We had a blast—plenty of laughter, a few falls (thankfully caught on video), and about 4km of trekking in all. The weather was ideal: clear skies, mild for this far north, and no new snow. Our guide was thrilled that our group—us and a lovely German couple living in Switzerland—was fit enough to complete the full loop. He said he often has to turn back with other tourists, so I think we earned some bonus points.

A rocky start for Drew

A timelapse of flat Finland

The huge hill

Post-Trek Recovery (and a Burger Revelation)

Once back in Rovaniemi, we were sweaty messes. A quick pit stop at the Airbnb for showers and laundry was essential before continuing with the day.

Lunch was next on the agenda, and we were ravenous. We’d been recommended a burger spot, and wow—what a win! They had amazing vegetarian options, possibly the best veggie burger I’ve had anywhere. Honestly, I didn’t come to northern Finland expecting great food, but Rovaniemi has proven me wrong again and again.

While Others Met Santa… We Hit the Gym

While the others visited Santa Claus Park (not really our scene), Jase tracked down a little gym at the local pool. It wasn’t anything fancy, but it got the job done. Afterwards, we swung by a taxi booking office (yes, that’s a thing here!) and scheduled our ride to the airport for tomorrow’s flight. Fingers crossed it actually shows up…

Final Night in Rovaniemi

Before heading back, we grabbed groceries to recreate our now-signature Mexican feast from the other night. Then it was time to pack up for the last internal flight of our trip.

I can’t quite believe it’s been four weeks already. Rovaniemi has been such an unexpected delight—filled with contrasts, warmth, and some truly memorable experiences. Onward to Helsinki!