Bergen: the wettest city on earth (offically)

Day 1

Bergen greeted us with a crisp morning as we set out for an early walk and a much-needed coffee. The city, nestled between fjords and mountains, has a vibe that feels both historic and vibrant. We strolled through quiet streets, taking in the fresh air before making our way to a local pastry shop. There, we savoured a warm cup of coffee and indulged in a delicious custard cinnamon roll—a perfect way to start the day.

Wandering Through Bergen’s Old Town: A Guided Tour

After our morning treat, we ventured further into town, passing by the picturesque theatres and charming streets that give Bergen its distinct character. The weather was still chilly, though slightly warmer than what we had been experiencing. However, spending an extended time outdoors allowed the cold to creep into our bones. Just as the rain began to fall, we layered up and braced ourselves for our walking tour of Bergen’s old town.

Our guide, an Australian woman from Melbourne, had moved to Bergen two decades ago after marrying a local. She led us through the old town with fascinating stories about its history. One of our first stops was Bergenhus Fortress, one of the oldest and best-preserved stone fortifications in Norway, dating back to the 13th century. From there, we explored Rosenkrantz Tower, a historic stronghold that once served as both a royal residence and a defensive structure.

The Legacy of Bryggen Wharf

We continued our tour through Bryggen, the city’s famous wharf lined with colourful wooden buildings. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, Bryggen’s history is deeply tied to the Hanseatic League, which took control after the devastating plague in the 1300s. The Hanseatic merchants dominated Bergen’s trade for centuries, and today, the preserved warehouses stand as a testament to the city’s resilience. Our guide also recounted the 12 major fires that ravaged the wharf, each time leading to its reconstruction. During World War II, Bergen fell under Nazi occupation, and the devastating explosion in the harbour in 1944 left a lasting mark on the city.

A Cozy Lunch & Scenic Views

After our history-filled morning, we followed our guide’s recommendation and stopped at Pygmalion, a cozy café known for its warm ambiance and delicious food. The inviting atmosphere was a welcome escape from the cold and wet weather.

In the afternoon, we opted for a ride on the Fløibanen funicular instead of hiking up Mt. Fløyen. The 320m ascent was quick, and while the clouds obscured most of the view, we caught glimpses of the breathtaking landscape as they shifted. Once at the summit, we wandered to a small lake tucked away in the back—an unexpected but delightful sight.

Ending the Day on a High Note

Later that evening, we headed to a gym that Jase had found, a great way to shake off the chill and get moving after a day of walking. Fortunately, we had already stocked up on groceries the day before, so we returned home and cooked a hearty dinner—a perfect ending to our day in Bergen.

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Day 2

A Solo Ascent Through the Mist

While the others headed back to the gym, I had a different plan: running up the mountain we had taken the funicular up the day before. It was still cold and rainy, but I had spent the night thinking about it—so today was the day!

Following a Strava route, I wound my way up the switchbacks, pausing at little waterfalls and keeping an eye out for any glimpse of the view that might break through the clouds. It took me 27 minutes to reach the top—not the fastest, but it was never about speed. The satisfaction of getting there under my own power was worth every step. The view? Same cloudy fog as the day before!

Taking the long way down, I ended up at Bryggen wharf, my watch telling me I’d climbed 389m and covered 8.3km. Not a bad way to start the day!

My run to up Fløyen

A Well-Earned Coffee Break

Back at the Airbnb, a hot shower helped shake off the chill before I headed to Godt Brøt for a well-earned coffee and croissant while waiting for laundry. I had just settled in when—without planning it—the others showed up. I guess they knew me well enough to predict where I’d be!

Stepping Again Into Bergen’s Hanseatic Past

With a break in the weather, we decided to explore some more of the past, starting at the Hanseatic Museum. This museum recreates life in Bryggen when the German merchants of the Hanseatic League controlled the stockfish trade.

Walking through the reconstructed assembly halls, we saw where traders once gathered, cooked, and made deals. The Hanseatic League established just four overseas offices—Bryggen is the only one preserved today.

A map of the Hanseatic World; a bull pizzle, used for whipping for punishment, causing both pain and embarrassment!

Medieval Life and Ancient Laws

After lunch, we moved on to the Bryggens Museum, which takes you even further back in time. Thousands of artefacts tell the story of everyday medieval life, from runic inscriptions full of gossip and poetry to Middle Eastern ceramics that reveal Bergen’s role in global trade.

One of the most fascinating exhibits was the nearly thousand-year-old Guddal garment, a rare and intact piece of Norwegian medieval clothing.

Upstairs, a temporary exhibit explored the Laws of the Land, introduced in 1274 by King Magnus VI Håkonsson. His legal reforms shaped Norway for over 400 years—earning him the nickname “the Lawmender.” It was the kind of exhibit you could lose yourself in for hours.

When structures burned down, the practice was to build right over the remnants. In this space, three or four builds were constructed on top of each other.

Wrapping Up the Day

With our history fix satisfied, Cloe and I did some shopping while the boys headed back to the Airbnb to start on dinner. The evening was spent indoors, a quiet contrast to the busy day—relaxing, recharging, and already thinking about what the next adventure would bring.